Cosmic Destinies
Where do the waves come from? Dorian Pascowitz was on to it. Yes they come from storm systems that sweep across the planet, but where do the storms get their energy? As we slowly open our eyes, we see how very connected everything is. What will happen when our consciousness meets the universe?
6df Galaxy Survey: Beyond the Crux (2006)
6df Galaxy Survey: Beyond the Crux (2006)
So Lonely
I've caught my fair share of empty Maliwu, even when it was firing. I admit that it was in the middle of the night, under a full moon. I have never caught Maliwu all to myself during the day. Forecast was for wind but none found its way here. There were some long waits. I even ventured up to 3rd point for some fun lefts. There were some waist high sets rolling through that rewarded my patience at 1st point. Most of the time I might as well have been sitting in a cold lake. It was silly until the sets came. If you happened to check the cam this morning, I was the black dot with his arms crossed. Waiting. Thanks for missing the sets!
Maiden Voyage...
I had trouble sleeping last night. The anticipation of Lalo's first ride has been eating at me for too long. The wet spell coupled with a gnarly chest cold sealed away any possibility for me to surf. I woke up early and drove up to Santa Barbara to see the Queen. Ryan joined me to check on Lalo, ceremoniously witnessing her maiden voyage. Fair winds and following seas, at least until the tide filled in. It seemed only fitting that we surf there and Lalo didn't disappoint. I feel good! All the hard work and thought really paid off, I was very pleased by Lalo's smooth ride and silky transitions. The fin was doing its thing as well, placed perfectly for the day. Two waves was all it took. Lalo is solid.
Finally.
Collection de Putnam
I stopped by a gallery near my place and scored some eye candy. I was very taken by the R. West Wilderness shorty. Gorilla shots courtesy of Le Vyusher. The gallery also features works by Alex Kopps and others associated with Mollusk Surf Shop. Well worth a visit if you're in Hollyweird. The gallery is on Cahuenga just North of Sunset. Can't miss it. Don't miss it. For those of you far and away, I leave you with my favorite moments....
The Bonsai, beyond the Penjing
The Penjing, a plant that has been manipulated to resemble scenery on a minature scale. In Japan, Bonsai are a departure from the original Penjing or Penzai. Man has an incontrollable drive to recreate, modify, and then revel in his own ingenuity doesn't he? Nature it seems is not good enough. Flags, whatever size they may be must be raised and lands, whatever size they may be are claimed so that he can be content. All the while, it's really the man's ego that feeds with an endless hunger. This has been my dilemma of sorts, mainly realizing the relationship between conformity and order; figuratively shaking my head from the romance of things. Sounds simple enough but for some reason it struck me this morning as I strolled past the gardens of the Self Realization Center by my home. What is the moment when we break away from order and willfully adapt conformity. Why do we defend it? Why to we fight it? Do we ever return to order, or do we keep recreating conformities to serve our ego? I have viewed order as the natural flow of things and conformity as an unnatural adherence to a set of rules or ideals for better, for worse, or for whatever. I realize that they are just different planes of existence that we can willfully shift between. However, I do wonder if it's just another attempt to serve our satisfaction.
The Triplets of Hullville
Left to Right:
5'9" Fineline GeeBee. (AKA Red Headed Stepchild)
I don't know how the fates cut the string to get this in my grips. Formerly resided at Shelter Surf Shop, why they let this one go is beyond me but I'm not complaining. Finally scored a session with the fin dialed in at a well-trodden beach break south of Scattergood. Stoke meter is pegged on this board. So friendly to use and just flies through bumpy, throwing insiders. I like compact boards. More coverage on this one whenever possible.
6'3" Liddle Musko (AKA Kali)
A passion board that ties me to the roots of all this hullery. In just two short weeks, the black pinlined Musko met up with me at a fellow goofy footed hullers hacienda for the breakdown. I've surfed this board at points and beachies. The trim is just right and it loves to bury it's rail. Bury me standing...as we Gypsies say.
6'3" Lovelace Gull (AKA Lalo)
Rebhull alliance. I've been stoked on Ryan's boards since the first hull I ever surfed upon, "Satan" took me to the another world and I haven't looked back since. Through Sutho, Lalo is another mutation wrought with dreams of taking a step out from learned norms and a step into a new personal space of next gen hull riding. Past, present and future.
5'9" Fineline GeeBee. (AKA Red Headed Stepchild)
I don't know how the fates cut the string to get this in my grips. Formerly resided at Shelter Surf Shop, why they let this one go is beyond me but I'm not complaining. Finally scored a session with the fin dialed in at a well-trodden beach break south of Scattergood. Stoke meter is pegged on this board. So friendly to use and just flies through bumpy, throwing insiders. I like compact boards. More coverage on this one whenever possible.
6'3" Liddle Musko (AKA Kali)
A passion board that ties me to the roots of all this hullery. In just two short weeks, the black pinlined Musko met up with me at a fellow goofy footed hullers hacienda for the breakdown. I've surfed this board at points and beachies. The trim is just right and it loves to bury it's rail. Bury me standing...as we Gypsies say.
6'3" Lovelace Gull (AKA Lalo)
Rebhull alliance. I've been stoked on Ryan's boards since the first hull I ever surfed upon, "Satan" took me to the another world and I haven't looked back since. Through Sutho, Lalo is another mutation wrought with dreams of taking a step out from learned norms and a step into a new personal space of next gen hull riding. Past, present and future.
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