The Moor of Malibu
Othello.
7'1" x 22" x 2 3/4".
The "Othello" plan shape came into being after I rode the GIG She-hull, TDH's Vampire and Warmjet's Juanita. Things are a little different than the previous few, with a relaxed belly and blended rocker to accomadate my down the line intentions. The fastest I can go is the higher goal, tho Othello can turn quite well; the rocker begins to "rock" right behind my back foot so the "roll" comes to me easy when I want to change direction. To help me out since I'm mostly a backside rider, the tail rocker is more relaxed to give me more trim power. "think alaias...zero input = best output" as Ryan put it. Rails are bladed out to nothing and I've been running a 10" narrow based GL flex fin. The board is flexy too, I really enjoy the "womp" when Othello digs into a deep bottom turn. I also can recover from a committed bottom turn with ease, some boards just feel stuck to your feet. Othello is very, very agile and handy; a section maker. It has a light quality underfoot and handles big waves. I relish my blades from Ryan and he has become a true "Stoke-smith" for me. With all the comedy and tragedy that is Maliwu, Othello carves a story that leaves me beyond entertained. It was upon Othello I realized that riding a longer hull is like flying in a luxury jet... All by yourself.
Between the Lines
Oh, the many things that happen when one waits for the next set. Sometimes it's conversation and sometimes it's contemplation. Lately, I've been contemplating certain observations of the human factor. It is decisive to having a good session or a bad session. I've observed myself becoming frustrated with others, and in turn conspiring to "equalize" their behavior. I lose focus of my primary goal. It's not constructive to the attainment of ecstasy. That is, what I hope we seek when the energy arrives. Sadly, ego plays itself out in a relentless cycle; outlasting the many waves that crash on the beach, it is never-ending and the ego lingers on as it intends to thrive.
So I'm thankful for the lulls, opportunities to see things overlooked and ignored. Shared by the few who admit its aged fineness, in hopes to become anonymous, to depart from lust and drift among the rest of the atoms and particles upon the fringe of time...
Good Morning
I just recently spent the night on the beach for my birthday. I had the whole package, campfire, lady, dogs, close friends and surf. Speaking of which, there were some fun ones coming through. This was the view through my tent and what I woke up to. We didn't even get caught by the park ranger. File this under "The Gypsy"
Beyond Displacement
I stumbled across this vid this morning since the bouys weren't telling me to surf. Lately, I've been exposed to mat riding. I can feel the wave of this situation building. One day it shall "take me to the beach". Approach anyone who owns a modern surfing mat and you will notice an energy well known to surfers. The buzz of "stoke" is unmistakeable and infectious. I imagine that the feeling upon/within one is ethereal, weightless. The energy surrounds you; seducing your atoms into harmonious vibrations of the universe, and hearing its call from the beginning of time. I can imagine that. It's the vibration we feed off of, from the rev of a motorcycle, to the gallop of a horse at full speed, it and we are all connected. One.
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