Loser

The morning started well. I made it to the beach before sunrise and decided to get some night footage for the next video. Sets were rolling in nicely and I was getting excited about the prospects. Paddled out in the dark and waited for a set. Warmjet called me into a beauty and I dropped in. Camera rolling. The lights from the shore were dancing and warping against the face. In trim, I was stoked. Then, the wave suddenly began to section and closed out upon me. Lalo was ripped from my hands. The heavy feeling of dread knotted my stomach. By the time I caught up to Lalo, she was face-down on the rocks. When I turned her over, the camera and the mount was gone. This was the only thing left...



...I searched for two hours. No Joy. So my Pentax and mount rests, in the briny shallows of 1st point Malibu.

An hour later, I was catching waves in a frantic way, still blowing off steam from my recent loss. I took off at the top and the wave was pitching nicely. I was slotted. Swooping down to collect momentum and diving the rails for THE feel. This ride is great and I was finally used to Lalo as an extention...or so I thought. The inside section at Malibu is notorious for stealing boards but I was prepared, or so I thought. As the wave began to close, I buried the nose for a convenient surfacing out the back of the wave, it buried, but just a little too much. Lalo shot out the back of the wave with the force of a Neptune rocket and caught the strong off shore wind. I looked up at Lalo as if she were a kite. I was a bit mesmerized. I watched Lalo plummet back to earth, tail first.....DONK!


bummer.